My thoughts on a day spent wandering Miyajima and Hiroshima
I have been to so many new places in the past couple of years! I even created a series of artworks based on my trip to Japan last year, but I never shared my thoughts on those places.
As I was scrolling through my old travel photos for more inspiration for new work, I found I was already forgetting the names of places I had come across. What was this place again? What was this museum even about? I must put names to all these places I went to. So we’re going to go down memory lane!
Our first stop will be my one day trip to Miyajima and Hiroshima!
ONE DAY? Is that even possible? I mean anything is possible. I knew with the time I had, I would not be able to experience everything! BUT I could make time for my must sees which were the Memorial Peace Park and also the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.
However in the midst of my researching, I also stumbled on an intriguing picture of an imposing red torii gate, it was as if it was floating in the sea! It looked so magical and inviting. I felt it was something I would want to see and feel in person.
What I discovered was that this landmark was actually very close, on an island called Miyajima, just a boat’s ride from Hiroshima. With that in mind, I knew I had to put that on my list too, even if it was just for a couple of hours! I had to go
There are of course numerous things to do in Miyajima. I hear some people even spend the night there but I decided my main mission was to see the torii gates and anything else I encountered would be serendipity!
My Rough Plan:
AM
Catch boat to Miyajima from Hiroshima.
Enjoy for a few hours and come back
PM Hiroshima
Check out the Peace Park and the Hiroshima Memorial Museum
Then catch my train to Osaka in the evening.
Simple!
Going to Miyajima
I woke up to the gentle morning sunlight and got out of bed with ease. It felt like I was going on a little adventure as I took a quiet walk along the river, toward the boat which would take me to Miyajima.
At the booth, I bought a round trip ticket for the 8.15am ferry and a 12.40pm return. Would that be enough time? It would have to be!
The journey took about 40 minutes.
Wandering the island
Once I arrived at Miyajima, I decided my first port of call would of course be the red torii gates. I thought it might be better to go before the place becomes heaving with crowds. I could already imagine the eager tourists forming queues to take a photograph with the iconic landmark.
I followed the sign posts which took me down a dusky sandy path which was lined with trees and stone statues. There were deers slowly plodding along the paths too.
Even though it was spring, the sun was already out and blazing, so I popped open my umbrella to give me some relief from the sunshine.
Finding the Torii Gate
It didn’t take too long to walk and finally I had arrived at the gates. As expected, even though I came early, there was still a sizeable amount of tourists before me, all capturing their moment!
Green blue waves lapped around three hefty wooden red columns and top of it, a thick black beam. Barnacles clung to the sea weathered wood. Although simple in its form, it was a striking sight to see. The red fighting against the cloudless blue of the sky and the sea. I had to take a moment to breathe it in!
From a distance, I captured many photographs of it with my phone, admittedly looking at them all now, they all look the same. I admired its impressive form from afar. After that, I left to look around the island.
I decided I would go where my curiosity took me. Like a game with no borders, I wandered around freely, I found myself on a street with dark wooden buildings standing together. It felt like the street was still sleeping.
I remember there was an ancient shrine on one side and in another spot, I saw a bridge with red wooden barriers running alongside it. It had the most incredible arc I’d ever seen. It was almost touching the sky. I honestly wasn’t quite sure how people could even walk over it (did they even?). I was reminiscent of bridges I’d seen whilst watching ‘Spirited Away.’ Perhaps this too was a bridge for spirits to float over?!
Itsukushima Shrine
Soon I found myself entering a shrine called the ‘Itsukushima Shrine’. I think it was partly standing on stilts, as I remember treading over wooden floorboards and seeing the green blue sea peeking between the cracks.
There were curious hexagonal wooden boxes near the end of the shrine. I could see people drawing their fortunes. I decided to do the same and I dropped a coin into a donation box. It landed with a heavy clunk. Then I picked up a random box with black kanji on the side of it. Rolling it from side to side, I retrieved a long wooden stick with a number on it and then I found the corresponding numbered drawer. I retrieved a paper from it. Of course it was all in Japanese, so I couldn’t understand it. I decided it was a good fortune regardless and went on my way.
I followed the narrow backstreets away from the crowds, peering up the moss-covered stony stairs and enjoying the cosy wooden houses that lined the streets.
Amongst them was a traditional looking house with slatted wooden grates on the outside. I could see the inside of a small courtyard. There was a glimpse of green, a hidden garden and it was inviting me to come in!
But what was this building? I searched for signs outside and discovered it was in fact, a museum, the Miyajima History and Folklore museum.
I immediately paid the entrance fee and went inside, quietly pouring over old paintings and artefacts of the island. The floorboards creaked a little as I made my way through to a veranda.
Miyajima History and Folklore Museum
It revealed a central courtyard, with large mossy stones leading towards a lush garden and a pond, where golden carps were gliding slowly without interrupting the water’s surface. In the reflection of its deep green waters was a low hanging tree. Its sunlight lit leaves lifting gently in the wind
It was like a dream. The comforting lapping sounds of the water falling from a fountain were also lulling me into a daze. So I sat my bag down inside one of the tatami rooms overlooking the garden and decided to take more time to look at the garden.
I couldn’t believe that I had this place all to myself! I had to give myself a pat on the back, if you really make the effort, you can see amazing things.
It’s a memory I will never forget.
After looking at the garden from every angle possible, I took myself around the house and was confused the more I looked at the exhibition. Turns out, because I was so distracted by the garden, I had overlooked the arrows I was supposed to follow and I ended up viewing the rest of the museum exhibition backwards!
So I definitely advise you to look out for the arrows! They are there for a reason.
Taking a Rest
After that I made my way out, I decided to walk more along the ocean, away from the crowds and look at the red torii gates floating in the sea, wanting to lose consciousness of the time I had left on the island.
Well, feeling serene is all very well and good, but I also needed some fuel so I could survive the rest of the day! So back into one of the busy streets I went, overwhelmed with the food choices. There were a few red canopy covered stalls sitting under shady trees, all sizzling with various treats.
I opted for a boat-shaped tray of crispy takoyaki balls drizzled in a glistening brown sauce.
I nervously bit down on one of them, as I spotted a deer poking its shiny black snout at a bunch of tourists sitting next to me. I’d seen enough aggressive deer Reels on Instagram to know they’re not always as cute as they seem!
With my mouth still hoffling the last hot takoyaki ball, I decided to walk again and came across yet another temple!
Pagoda
This one, a towering red Pagoda with its pointed roofs curving against the blue of the sky, was an imposing sight. It sat atop a huge flight of stony steps. Feeling slightly defeated already, I had to ask myself. Did I really want to walk up all those steps?
But I’d come so far, so yes, I SHOULD go up these many many stairs.
After paying a small entrance fee, I walked around it. That was in fact not the main feature! As I reached the top of the stairs, there was another grandiose wooden looking building next to it. I stepped inside it, sensing the strength of the thick wooden beams.
It was more like a vast open veranda, which overlooked the entire island (or so it seemed), it was as if the building was perching on the side of the hill. Yet again, I sat down and was left in a space to have no thoughts. What a peaceful day I was having.
Before I could forget myself, I left to give myself some time to reach the terminal in order to catch my 12.40pm boat back to Hiroshima.
For me, even a couple of hours in Miyajima was perfect! I felt like I had enough time to soak in the atmosphere peacefully and also explore the island at my own leisure. So if you enjoy a similar travel style like me it is definitely doable.
Hiroshima
Leaving behind Miyajima, the ferry took me back to Hiroshima.
On approach to our stop, I could see from the boat, one sole building standing behind a gated fence. A relic of the past, bricks exposed, crumbled walls – it was the building known as the Atomic Bomb Dome. The one building that was left standing after the horrific Atomic Bomb in 1945.
I alighted at the terminal, leaving for the memorial peace park. What I remember most is the serenity of the area.
I could see rainbow paper cranes nestled together, a burning flame glowing and roses blooming in the gardens. It reminded me that although Hiroshima was a site of tragedy, there is also a feeling of quiet hope.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum was next on my list. I did not take many photos but it did not require them. Simply reading the personal stories of what happened was hard to forget.
There was one exhibit that struck me in particular. I saw in a dimly lit casing, the burnt clothes of a child. The clothes were given the hint of a shape, a sense of a body, by being placed on a wooden mannequin. Seeing it in this light and in the shadows, it felt so haunting and evocative to me. I could sense there used to be a person there and that they were here no longer.
With a lump in my throat, I left in a sombre mood, ready to move onto my next part of my trip, Osaka.
I made a video of this day! You can watch the full video here ‘Reflecting on Japan: Sketching Miyajima’s Serenity (Hiroshima & Osaka Day Trip)‘
